Plant a fruit tree

Specialists say that it is better to buy a fruit tree at the shop, buying the rootstocks of the dwarfing (smaller than normal) type for they are generally best for the home gardener. They say they are the easiest to harvest and to prune. They produce higher yields per acre than larger trees. Fully dwarf trees allow one to grow as many as nine different trees in the space that one full sized tree would take up.

Many people plant the new tree directly in a permanent location and some put the tree in a pot so it can be given special care. By being in a pot, it can be brought into a warm spot. This is helpful in callusing the new graft and it is especially beneficial for some stone fruits.

They say that when the trees starts to leaf out, it can be moved outside to a sunny location but can still be brought in if the weather gets cold freezing. During the first days, the tree can be put out side for a few hours in order to get used to the climate outside. In hot weather months it can be given a little shade if necessary.

They inform that the tree can be set in its permanent location in mid fall or early spring when the tree is dormant. If one is careful not to disturb the root ball, the tree will hardly know it has been transplanted. They alert that potted trees will not survive outside during the winter unless the pots are sunk into the ground. The tops may take thirty below (-1.11 Celsius) but the root area can only take about 10 degrees F (-12,21 Celsius).

They advise that when selecting a site for planting the tree, to look for one with good drainage. If the spot selected has a high water table or has standing water after a rain, a raised mound or bed should be constructed ant the tree must be planted above ground level. They explain that the roots of fruit trees need air.

They also advise to plant fruit trees in good soil. They say that if the ground is filled with construction rubble, an area can be dug of about four feet by four feet by 18 inches deep and replaced with garden soil that drains well. They advise to only start fertilizing with natural fertilizer, after the tree is well established.

They explain to plant a dwarf fruit tree so the graft between the rootstock and scion, or between the inter stem and scion is several inches above the ground. If not, the scion may root directly and the tree will not be dwarfed. The roots inter stem graft however can be planted below ground.

They say that once trees are planted, they must be watered conscientiously. Given an inch of water weekly from bud break through August, unless rainfall is heavy. After August, trees may be watered sparingly so they can harden after winter.

They explain that a mulch or grass clippings, wood chips, newspaper held down by bricks or rocks, or any other suitable materials will conserve soil moisture and discourage weeds.

They say that training a young tree should result in a good bearing framework. The central leader system is most commonly used on dwarf apples.

They advise to prune as little as possible while trees are young, only enough to achieve the desired structure and maintain the central leader. This can be done with pin type clothes, pins, pieces of wood called “spreaders”, or hanging plastic jugs of water from the heavier branches. A second tier of branches should be established above the first scaffold. Two or three tiers of branches are enough on a dwarf tree. They point out that the leader must always remain in the highest point in the tree even though it can be pruned to keep the tree at the desired height.

They say that as the fruit tree grows older it must be pruned so light and air can reach the fruit. Renewal pruning should be done from time to time since the size and quality of the fruit diminishes on old fruiting wood. Spring pruning encourages more growth. If some varieties are too vigorous, they must not be pruned until July or August for pruning will not stimulate as much as new growth, If graft failed to show any growth and sprouts develop from below the graft union, there is no need for despair! Allow two or three of the sprouts to grow. If they develop adequately, you may try bud grafting later in the summer or try more scion grafts next spring.